The lane named after a French liquor company founded in 1907 · entrance at 56 Le Loi · a lookout post on one September night in 1966
People in Hoi An call an alley a kiet, and among the hundreds of them threading through the Old Town, Sica Alley has the strangest name of all. Not a founding craftsman, not a well, not a temple — four letters left behind by a French company that vanished from Vietnam more than seventy years ago. We followed that name all the way into the colonial company registers, and the story turned out to be far longer than the eighty-odd metres of lane it belongs to.
- Where Sica Alley is
- What Sica actually stands for
- The liquor warehouse and the alcohol war in Annam
- Before dawn, 2 September 1966
- What is in Sica Alley today
- Why the Old Town has so many alleys
- Photographing the lane: when and how
- People live here — a short code of conduct
- What to combine it with
- Getting there and parking
- Frequently asked questions
№ 01Where Sica Alley is
Sica Alley opens off 56 Le Loi Street, on the stretch between Phan Chau Trinh and Tran Phu, right beside Hoi An Communal House — the temple locals know as Dinh Ong Voi, the Elephant Shrine. From the mouth of the lane the path runs west into the belly of the block, squeezing between ochre walls, then feeds into the tangle of alleys behind the main streets.
On the paperwork: since 1 July 2025, when Quang Nam province merged into Da Nang City, this whole quarter sits in Hoi An ward, Da Nang City. Before that it was Minh An ward, Hoi An City, Quang Nam.
One sign that the lane has outgrown neighbourhood gossip: Google Maps now labels it separately as “Kiet Sica (Sica Alley)”, listed as a tourist attraction rather than an unnamed stretch of paving. House numbers inside run in the 56/… format — the chicken rice place deep in the lane is 56/16 Le Loi, meaning the sixteenth door in from the street.
In Hoi An and Quang Nam generally, kiet is the local word for a narrow lane. You will see both spellings in use: “kiet Sica” and “hem Sica” refer to exactly the same place. Hoi An people almost never say ngo — that is northern Vietnamese.
№ 02What Sica actually stands for
Nearly every article about Hoi An stops at one sentence: Sica Alley is where the French had a liquor warehouse called SICA. True enough, but it leaves out the interesting part — what was SICA?
We went digging in the French colonial business archives and found a match that lines up on every detail: the Société Industrielle et Commerciale de l’Annam, officially abbreviated S.I.C.A., roughly “the Industrial and Commercial Company of Annam”.
- Founded in 1907 as a joint-stock company.
- Registered business: the manufacture and sale of alcohol — in the original, fabrication et vente d’alcool.
- Operating headquarters in Tourane — today’s Da Nang — on the quai Courbet along the Han River.
- Factories in Quang Nam. A 1943 listing records two plants in Quang Nam province, alongside Quang Binh (2), Quang Tri (1), Thua Thien (2), Quang Ngai (1) and Binh Dinh (2).
- Staff in the Faifo area. The 1936 Annam electoral roll includes a district literally called “Circonscription électorale de Faifo — Quangngai” listing SICA employees. Faifo was the European name for Hoi An.
Put it together: a French liquor company based in Da Nang, with plants and staff in Quang Nam and Faifo, needed storage and a distribution point in the trading port itself. A lane just off Le Loi, running deep into the block yet still connected to a main street, is close to the perfect place for a warehouse.
We have not found a document that says, in so many words, “the SICA warehouse at Faifo stood on Le Loi Street”. What we have are two halves. First, multiple Vietnamese sources, including the Quang Nam – Da Nang provincial press, confirm the lane is named after a French SICA liquor warehouse. Second, the colonial company records confirm that S.I.C.A. was a French alcohol company founded in 1907, headquartered in Tourane, with operations in Quang Nam and Faifo. Joining those two halves is our own inference. We think it is a strong one — but it is inference, not citation. If you have family papers or old photographs of that warehouse, we would genuinely like to see them.
№ 03The liquor warehouse and the alcohol war in Annam
To understand why a warehouse mattered enough to name a lane after, you have to zoom out a little.
In the early twentieth century alcohol was one of the three great revenue pillars of the colonial administration, alongside opium and salt. The giant of the trade was the Société française des distilleries de l’Indochine, founded in 1901 by Auguste-Raphaël Fontaine, which held the monopoly on distilling rice alcohol in Tonkin and northern Annam for three decades. Fontaine alcohol was what Vietnamese villagers of the period called ruou ty — the licensed liquor each village was obliged to buy by quota.
S.I.C.A. was born into that world, and the French sources describe it in exactly those terms: presented as an example of a competitor to the Distilleries of Indochina. In 1912 Governor-General Sarraut had to sign a special decree allowing SICA to import industrial alcohol into Annam up to half the authorised annual output of its six establishments. The competition did not last. By 1920 SICA was already a subsidiary, and in 1954 the Fontaine group raised its stake from 14 percent to more than half.
The end of SICA is also the end of the warehouse. A 1954 financial bulletin records that the company’s plants had been entirely destroyed, leaving it to resell alcohol produced elsewhere. Nine years into the First Indochina War, the name disappeared from the economic map of Vietnam.
What survived, oddly enough, was a lane. The warehouse is gone, the company is gone, but people in Hoi An still call the place Sica Alley — a French name that outlived a war, a change of street names and the town’s inscription as a World Heritage Site, purely because nobody ever bothered to stop saying it.
The warehouse disappeared three generations ago. The name stayed, because it never occurred to anyone to change it.— Anh Khoa, Hoi An local
№ 04Before dawn, 2 September 1966
This is the part we believe no travel article has told. Sica Alley appears by name in a research paper published by the Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation, in a study of the communal house, quoting the memoir of Dinh Van Loi of the Hoi An urban commando unit.
The setting: Dinh Ong Voi was guarded at night. For Vietnam’s National Day on 2 September 1966, the commando team decided to raise the flag of the National Liberation Front on the communal house flagpole. Nguyen Thi Sim was given the job of sewing it — 1.2 by 2 metres.
- Around 3 a.m.Three men — Tran Do, Dinh Van Loi and Bui Son Thanh — set out and were stopped by a military police patrol. All three were in shorts and T-shirts, pretending to be out for early exercise. Fortunately they had not yet collected the flag or the grenade.
- Checking the groundAfter going through the motions of exercising in the courtyard and confirming no guards were present, Loi ran back for the flag and the grenade.
- Splitting the lookoutsFrom the memoir, verbatim: “Comrade Tran Do kept watch on Pho Tung alley, comrade Thanh kept watch on SICA alley and Le Loi street.” The lane you are about to walk into was one of the two lookout posts that night.
- Flag plus grenadeOnce the flag was tied on, they hung an M26 grenade beneath it before hoisting — so that nobody would dare pull it down in a hurry.
- 7 a.m.Only then did the authorities notice. They surrounded the communal house, closed the road and blocked traffic.
- 10 a.m.Engineers finally arrived to sweep for mines and take the flag down. It had flown over the roof for seven hours in the middle of town.
The detail Old Town obsessives will enjoy most: “Pho Tung alley” in that memoir is also still there. It is the lane at 51/7 Phan Chau Trinh where Pho Tung still serves breakfast every morning. Two alleys in one page of a wartime memoir, both still open sixty years later — one selling noodle soup, the other carrying the name of a French liquor firm.
Source: the study “Hoi An Communal House in History”, Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation, quoting the memoir of Dinh Van Loi.
№ 05What is in Sica Alley today
Do not expect a museum. Sica Alley is now an ordinary residential lane of the Old Town: ochre walls, wooden shutters, cables strung overhead, potted plants by the doorsteps, motorbikes tilted against the wall to leave a path. Its appeal lies elsewhere.
A few coordinates worth knowing
Com ga Huong – Kiet Sica · 56/16 Le Loi. A chicken rice place deep inside the lane that only opens around 16:30 — it does not serve breakfast. Google gives it roughly 3.4 out of 5 across 80-plus reviews: not a consensus favourite, but a neighbourhood regular and a good option if you want com ga once the heat has dropped.
Hoi An Communal House (Dinh Ong Voi) · immediately beside the alley mouth on Le Loi. Its origins go back to the Le dynasty; it was restored in the seventeenth year of Gia Long and moved when the French cut Rue Hoi An through the quarter under Emperor Thanh Thai. This is where the 1966 flag story happened.
The alley network behind · Keep walking and you will meet other branches leading towards Tran Phu. Several of Hoi An’s better-known restaurants sit at the end of lanes like these — the hidden-down-an-alley restaurant is practically a local genre.
If you are after grandeur, this is not it. If you are after the specific sensation of stepping from a street packed with visitors into complete quiet within ten paces, Sica Alley delivers it about as cleanly as anywhere in town, for the simple reason that hardly any tourists think to turn in.
№ 06Why the Old Town has so many alleys
There are real numbers behind this. Research by Tran Thi Le Xuan of the Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation puts figures on the Old Town alley system:
| Measure | Figure | What it means on foot |
|---|---|---|
| Typical width | 1 – 2m | Two people passing must both turn sideways |
| Narrowest lanes | about 0.7m | One person only; a large backpack has to go sideways |
| Density | roughly one alley per ten houses | Walk one block and you miss about ten turnings |
| Tran Phu to Nguyen Thai Hoc alone | 20 through-alleys | Almost every stretch has a shortcut down to the river |
| Shape | usually straight, few dead ends | Turn in with confidence; you rarely have to double back |
The reason for that density is thoroughly practical. Hoi An was a trading port. The old shophouses are tube houses — narrow frontage, great depth — and goods coming off the river needed a route to the storerooms at the back. The alleys served as trade routes, as fire escapes and as ventilation between tightly packed rows. When roads replaced boats, the lanes simply stayed where they were, and became the thing visitors now hunt for with a camera.
That is also why Hoi An alleys are named after whatever was actually there: Ba Le well alley has the ancient Cham well with the sweetest water in town, Nhi Trung alley has a mossy well sitting square in the middle of the path, Am Hon shrine alley has the shrine, and Sica Alley had the liquor warehouse. Alley names here work as a shared memory map. If you want to walk a few more of them, we cover the best in our guide to the hidden alleys of Hoi An.
№ 07Photographing the lane: when and how
Hoi An alleys are narrow and high-walled, so the light inside changes fast through the day. A few things we have learned taking guests down them:
- 6:30 to 8:00 is the genuine golden window. The sun is still low, the ochre walls warm up without blowing out, and — more importantly — there is nobody in your frame.
- 16:30 to 17:30 is the second option. Soft light, but by then people are moving about, parking bikes, cooking. Beautiful in a lived-in way rather than an empty one.
- Avoid 11:00 to 14:00. Overhead sun cuts hard bright and dark bands across the path and the files are almost unsalvageable.
- Shoot from the mouth of the lane inwards for the leading-line effect. Two walls converging is the single strongest composition these alleys offer.
- Go vertical rather than horizontal. The lane is tall and tight; a portrait frame tells the story far better.
- Watch for the wooden shutters and ventilation grilles. That detail is what separates an Old Town alley from any yellow wall anywhere else.
- Do not write off rainy days. Wet ochre goes several shades deeper, and the paving reflects late-afternoon light beautifully.
Alley names, wells, shrines and shophouse layouts make far more sense with someone explaining them. If you would rather not piece it together alone, a guided walk or Old Town tour on GetYourGuide covers the lanes and the trading history behind them. Prices can be displayed in VND and cancellation is free up to 24 hours ahead. Booking through that link supports this guide at no extra cost to you.
№ 08People live here — a short code of conduct
The key difference between Sica Alley and a heritage site: nobody sells you a ticket, but nobody invited you either. The whole lane is the front yard of the families living along it.
1. Keep your voice down, especially before 8 a.m. and after 9 p.m.
2. Never step over a threshold or into someone’s yard to get a better angle.
3. Ask before photographing residents. People in Hoi An almost always say yes — but you have to ask.
4. Do not move plant pots, bicycles or chairs to tidy up your composition.
5. Give way to anyone carrying goods. The lane is narrow, they are working and you are sightseeing.
6. No litter, no smoking in the lane.
7. No drones over residential blocks in the Old Town.
To be blunt: a number of Hoi An alleys have started putting up no-photography signs or stringing ropes across the entrance because visitors pushed too far. Sica Alley is still relaxed about it, and the only way it stays relaxed is if people behave as though they are walking past someone’s home — because they are.
№ 09What to combine it with
Sica Alley takes 15 to 20 minutes. It works best as one stop in a morning walk rather than a destination in itself.
A morning of alleys, without spending a dong on tickets
6:30 – 7:15 · Breakfast. The Old Town is at its best now — see our notes on a peaceful early morning in Hoi An.
7:30 – 7:50 · Sica Alley and the communal house at 56 Le Loi. This is the emptiest the lane gets all day.
8:00 – 8:40 · Walk over to the Ba Le well and the alleys off Tran Phu. More of them in our guide to the hidden alleys of Hoi An.
8:45 – 9:30 · Chua Ong (Quan Cong Temple) and Hoi An Market, both minutes away on foot.
Late afternoon · Come back to the lane for com ga after 16:30 if you want to close the loop. Nearby, Phap Bao Pagoda on Hai Ba Trung is another free, almost tourist-free stop.
№ 10Getting there and parking
Sica Alley sits on Le Loi, inside the Old Town vehicle restriction zone. That makes it different from most places we write about: during restricted hours you cannot ride up to the alley mouth. Check the current schedule in our guide to Hoi An Old Town vehicle restriction hours.
- From the Japanese Covered BridgeWalk east along Tran Phu for 400 to 500m, then turn left onto Le Loi. Seven or eight minutes. More on the Japanese Covered Bridge if it is your first visit.
- From Hoi An MarketThe closest approach — a few hundred metres along Tran Phu and up Le Loi.
- By motorbikePark at one of the lots around Phan Chau Trinh, Hoang Dieu or Nguyen Hue and walk in. Expect 5,000 to 10,000 VND. See how the Old Town ticket and kiosks work if you plan to visit the ticketed monuments afterwards.
- By carNot advisable. Park on the outer ring and continue on foot or by bicycle.
- From Da NangAbout 30km, 45 to 60 minutes by motorbike along Vo Nguyen Giap and Lac Long Quan, then park outside the Old Town and walk.
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84 Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An · info@hoianit.comFrequently asked questions
Where is Sica Alley in Hoi An?
Sica Alley opens off 56 Le Loi Street, between Phan Chau Trinh and Tran Phu, right beside Hoi An Communal House, known locally as Dinh Ong Voi. The administrative address today is Hoi An ward, Da Nang City; before 1 July 2025 it was Minh An ward, Hoi An City, Quang Nam province.
What does the name Sica mean?
Sica comes from a French liquor warehouse that once stood in this lane. Cross-checked against colonial business records, S.I.C.A. stands for Société Industrielle et Commerciale de l Annam, a French alcohol company founded in 1907 with operating headquarters in Tourane, now Da Nang, factories in Quang Nam and staff in the Faifo district, Faifo being the old European name for Hoi An.
Do you need a ticket for Sica Alley?
No. Sica Alley is a residential lane, not one of the ticketed heritage monuments of Hoi An Ancient Town. You can walk in freely, there is no charge and nobody checks tickets.
What is the best time to visit Sica Alley?
Between 6:30 and 8:00 in the morning, when the light is still low and the lane is almost empty. The second-best window is 16:30 to 17:30. Avoid roughly 11:00 to 14:00, when overhead sun creates harsh bands of light and shadow along the path.
Is there anywhere to eat in Sica Alley?
Yes. Com ga Huong sits at 56/16 Le Loi, deep inside the lane. It only opens from around 16:30 and does not serve breakfast, and it holds roughly 3.4 out of 5 across more than 80 Google reviews.
What is the difference between kiet and hem?
There is none. Kiet is the local word used in Hoi An and Quang Nam for a narrow alley, while hem is the more general Vietnamese term. Both kiet Sica and hem Sica refer to the same lane. Hoi An people rarely use the northern word ngo.
How wide are the alleys in Hoi An Old Town?
According to research by the Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation, Old Town alleys are usually 1 to 2 metres wide, with the narrowest around 0.7 metres. The stretch between Tran Phu and Nguyen Thai Hoc alone contains 20 alleys connecting the two streets.
Can you ride a motorbike into Sica Alley?
No, and you should not try. The lane is very narrow and it lies inside the Old Town vehicle restriction zone. Park at one of the lots around Phan Chau Trinh, Hoang Dieu or Nguyen Hue for 5,000 to 10,000 VND and walk in.
Updated August 2026. Sources used in this guide: the study “Hoi An Communal House in History” by the Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation, quoting the memoir of Dinh Van Loi; the alley survey by Tran Thi Le Xuan published in the Quang Nam – Da Nang provincial press; and the file on the Société Industrielle et Commerciale de l Annam in the French colonial business archives. The link between the alley name and the S.I.C.A. company is our own inference from those sources rather than a direct citation, and we say so in the article. This page contains an affiliate link: if you book through it we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Sica Alley is a residential lane — please keep noise down and respect the privacy of the families who live there.
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